IN COLLABORATION DECEMBER 5 2024
by Design Miami
The Italian luxury fashion house commissions an intriguing new collection from London-based designer-maker Lewis Kemmenoe
FENDI PRESENTS ÆNIGMA BY LEWIS KEMMENOE AT DESIGN MIAMI 2024
Photo © Kris Tamburello for DESIGN MIAMI
Longtime DESIGN MIAMI Show Partner FENDI returns to the fair with an intricate, intriguing exhibition of new works by London-based designer-maker Lewis Kemmenoe.
Following a period of research — which included visits to Rome’s museums and botanical gardens, FENDI’s headquarters at Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, and the FENDI Factory in the Tuscan countryside — Kemmenoe developed what he has dubbed the ænigma collection. The title references both the Latin word for “puzzle” and the English word meaning “something hard to understand or explain.”
FENDI PRESENTS ÆNIGMA BY LEWIS KEMMENOE AT DESIGN MIAMI 2024
Photo © Kris Tamburello for DESIGN MIAMI
Representing a unique confluence of the sensibilities of Kemmenoe’s own practice and those of the distinctly Roman luxury fashion house, the ænigma collection comprises two chairs, a cabinet, two wall panels, two lamps, a coffee table, three vessels, and an iconic Peekaboo Soft bag. A closer examination of the pieces invites reflection on the production processes that Kemmenoe employed, revealing an overarching duality in materiality.
Box joints are used as both a construction technique and an organic vehicle to integrate the FENDI FF motif. A jacket pattern from FENDI’s atelier is reimagined as timber patchwork, a signature of Lewis’ work. The bark of Rome’s famous pine trees are cast into brass and aluminum. Kemmenoe’s reinterpretation of the Peekaboo bag introduces a patchwork pattern of FENDI leathers on the exterior and unexpected wooden elements hidden inside.
FENDI PRESENTS ÆNIGMA BY LEWIS KEMMENOE AT DESIGN MIAMI 2024
Photo © Kris Tamburello for DESIGN MIAMI
The house of FENDI was established by Adele and Edoardo Fendi in Rome in 1925. The opening of the first FENDI boutique – a handbag shop and fur workshop followed. Soon winning international acclaim, FENDI emerged as a brand renowned for its elegance, craftsmanship, innovation and style. Called by the legendary five Fendi sisters, the collaboration with the late Karl Lagerfeld began back in 1965 and lasted 54 years. In 1992 Silvia Venturini Fendi seconded him in the Artistic Direction; in 1994 she was given the direction of Accessories and later of Menswear. In 2000 the LVMH Group acquired FENDI, becoming in 2001 its majority shareholder. Appointed in 2020, Kim Jones held the role of Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear until 2024. Since 2020, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, fourth generation of the Fendi family, has been Artistic Director of Jewellery. Today FENDI is synonymous with quality, tradition, experimentation and creativity.
Born in Kent, Kemmenoe studied Fine Art at Central Saint Martins before earning an MA in Design at the Royal College of Art. Influenced by a range of disciplines — architecture, fashion, and furniture design — his practice articulates his desire to craft material-driven organic objects that are functional yet subtly subversive.